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NAVAJO WEAVING BASICS
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Like all art forms, Navajo rugs have changed in
design, construction and use over the years, but one fact remains
consistent - the rugs are inherent illustrations of the Navajo culture.
Years and years ago, weavers probably sat at crude
looms to weave the hair of game animals, horses or humans; plant
fibers, bark fibers and feathers. Out of necessity, these early looms,
probably with a single support, evolved into a more framelike loom with
a pair of closely placed stakes connected by a third across the top of
both. This provided a place for warp thread that could then be plaited
or twined into mats and other expanses of fabric. Looms of this type
are still in use among Navajo weavers today.
Initially, the natural fibers used allowed for color
schemes that included ivory, brown, gray, tan and black. With the
introduction of vegetable dyes, still before the presence of white
cultures, rust, yellow and green were available as well. It was the
Spanish who brought indigo dye to the Navajo, and later also brought a
cloth called "baize," which the Navajo weavers unraveled and spun again
into their sheep's wool to create a shade of red.
Navajo weaving is generally classed by six "periods:"
- The Early Classic Period / 1700 - 1850
The Spanish were making inroads into Navajo territories. It is believed
the Navajo learned to weave from Pueblo cultures who escaped to Navajo
lands while fleeing the invasion of the Spanish during the 1600s. While
the presence of the Spanish was not welcome, they did introduce sheep
to native populations, and with the sheep, wool, which ultimately
replaced early weaving materials.
- The Classic Period / 1850 - 1863
The creations of Navajo weavers became increasingly in demand in trades
by members of other tribes and while military personnel. Weaving was
permanently embedded in the Navajo culture by this time as well, and
even when the government imprisoned and moved them to New Mexico in
1863, away from their sheep and wool, they continued to weave by
returning to the use of fiber.
- The Transition Period / 1868 - 1890 The
release of the Navajo and the return to their homelands only enhanced
the production of weavings. The introduction of commercial yarns also
brought new colors to the rugs and blankets at this time.
- The Rug Period / 1890 - 1920
During this period, the Navajo blanket makers began to get competition
from commercial rug producers like Pendleton, so they turned their
attention to denser weavings that could be used as rugs. During this
time "style" also began to evolve. Juan Hubbell of the famed Hubbell
Trading Post family in Ganado, Arizona had a strong influence on Navajo
weavers. He encouraged them to strive for quality over quantity and to
preserve the classic designs of the old days. One design of crosses,
stripes and diamonds set in deep red and bordered in black became known
as the "Ganado" style. John B. Moore of Crystal, New Mexico also played
a key role in the stylization and popularity of Navajo rugs. He would
send native wools to the East for cleaning and dying and shared his
design ideas with Navajo. Moore's concepts evolved into the "Two Gray
Hills" and "Crystal" styles, and he was the first to begin a successful
mail order rug business.
- The Revival Period / 1920 - 1940
The boom of the early Rug Period had ended with a true bust. The U.S.
government had introduced French Rambouillet sheep to the reservation.
While these sheep produced large amounts of wool and mutton for food,
the quality of the wool was inferior. Despite the best efforts of the
Navajo weavers the quality of the rugs went down and so did sales. The
Revival Period brought life back to the craft. Leon McSparron of the
Chinle Trading Post and Mary C. Wheelwright, a patron of the Navajo
people, lobbied for a return to the use of vegetable dyes. But
commercial dyes were not completely abandoned, as dye companies
actually developed special toned and easy-to-use products specifically
for Navajo weavers. During this period the Navajo Sheep Breeding
Laboratory, to explore and generate the finest wools; and the Navajo
Arts and Crafts Guild, which provided quality and authenticity control;
were formed.
- Regional Style Period / 1940 - present
With the success of styles like Ganado and Two Gray Hills, more rugs
were created on the premise of reservation locale - Ganado, Shiprock,
Lukachukai, Teec Nos Pos, Crystal, Two Gray Hills, Chinle, Wide Ruin
and Tonalea.
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